I started playing with multiple structures and changeable structures in doubleweave during my last doubleweave class (with Jennifer Moore) at Penland in Summer 2013. While there, I had access to a 12-shaft loom. After returning home, I purchased a 24 shaft loom and as my first project on my new-to-me loom, I decided to continue my experiment. One of the biggest issues I had with the first experiment at Penland was the different displacement caused by a different structure in the top and bottom layers. This caused one layer to wrap up around the other layer at the selvedges especially once it was initially wet-finished. In an attempt to minimize that issue with this second experiment, I choose to use plain-weave to create tube selvedges to act somewhat as a frame to hold the yarn in any adjacent structures in place. Having two of the pattern block layers limited to plain weave also helped to stabilize the cloth. It appears to have worked.
I also choose to thread the 4-shaft blocks in a straight draw so that I could play with a number of different 4-shaft variations including various twills. In some ways, this made the project a bit of a twill gamp too. I also choose to weave with slightly different colors in my wefts than in the warps to help to emphasize the structure in the resulting cloth.
This project was also my first real opportunity to work with drafting software. There was certainly a bit of a learning curve on that, but after changing the time up so many times on the 12-shaft loom at Penland, an opportunity to do all of the design up-front in software and then to let the computer handle the liftplan on the computer-dobby, was a real treat.
I was really happy with the resulting scarf. It is a bit heavy in weight for most seasons, but with the bitter cold we have had this winter in Cleveland, OH, the warmth of the double layer scarf has been welcome.
Warp: 10./2 cotton in gray and off-white Weft: 10/2 cotton in black and white
# of Shafts :24
Threading: 4 blocks
Block A: right and left selvedges – 4 shafts, plain weave in both layers to create a tube selvedge
Block B: Layer 1: 4-shaft straight draw; Layer 2: 2-shaft = 6 shafts
Block C: Layer 1: 4-shaft straight draw; Layer 2: 2-shaft = 6 shafts
Block D: Layer 1: 4-shaft straight draw; Layer 2: 4-shaft straight draw = 8 shafts
Epi: 24 epi/per layer for a total of 48 epi
Ppi: ~24 ppi/per layer for a total of 48 ppi
Sleying in reed: 4 per dent (2 of each per layer)
Size of reed: 12 dent reed